Signs your vapor barrier has failed
- Bare dirt showing through rips or gaps
- Plastic pushed into piles by plumbers, cable installers or pest techs
- Puddles sitting on top of the plastic after rain
- A musty smell in the house
- Damp or darkened floor joists
The original 6 mil plastic used by many builders tears easily and was rarely sealed. Once it has holes, moisture comes straight through.
Our vapor barrier installation
We start by clearing out debris and any old, damaged plastic. Then we lay a new barrier from 12 to 20 mil thick, depending on your budget and how much traffic the space gets. Thicker liners resist punctures from knees, tools and future service calls.
Seams overlap by at least 6 inches and are taped. We run the barrier up the foundation walls and fasten it, and we wrap and seal it around piers. The result is a continuous surface with no bare soil exposed.
Vapor barrier vs. full encapsulation
A vapor barrier covers the ground. Encapsulation goes further: it seals the walls, closes the vents and adds a dehumidifier. If your crawl space is mostly dry and your budget is tight, a quality vapor barrier is a solid first step. If you have a musty smell, mold or sagging floors, encapsulation is usually the better long-term fix. We will price both options so you can compare.
Helping with home sales
A missing or failed vapor barrier is one of the most common items on Dothan home inspection reports. We can usually inspect within a few days and provide a written scope and invoice for closing.